"Elevator" Description of Rotary

Throughout the year, I have gotten pretty good at my “elevator” description of Rotary International– my quick narrative that encompasses the international network dedicated to service above self and doing good in the world. In talking with several Ghanaian students about Rotary and the Ambassadorial Scholarship, I found that many students were genuinely impressed and wondered if they could do something like it. Unfortunately, I heard that awarding Ambassadorial Scholarships in Ghana ended quite a few years back. I discussed the issue with a Rotarian who told me that they had several problems with the scholars not returning home if they went to the US or UK. Even though they were required to return after a year, they found a way to stay secretly without being able to be contacted. I was surprised that a scholar would do that and also that they could get away with it. She said that it was impossible to distinguish the types of people who would follow the rules and those who would not. Maybe, I thought, they did not complete the same rigorous interview and application process that was required in my home district. "Luckily," she said, "the good students who are trustworthy can still get other types of scholarships to get them to the US or UK." I thought about this for a minute and realized, “But that suggests that academic scholarships serve the same purpose as the Ambassadorial Scholarship. There is no way my experience here would have been the same if I was on a purely academic scholarship.” I have faith that something can be done to reinstate scholarships as part of Future Vision (Rotary's new grant program replacing the Ambassadorial Scholarship). There are ways to ensure a student returning. Perhaps it could be part of a two-year program where the second year is finished back in Ghana, or data are collected abroad and brought back home. The purpose of going abroad could be learning about a tool or skill that is necessary to fulfill a need back in Ghana. I think with proper interviewing and structure of the scholarship, something could be done. The experience is just too valuable to miss. 

 

The Troubled World of International Aid and a Reflection on Rotary

A moment I will never forget was perhaps my most disheartening moment of the year, and yet, my proudest moment of Rotary. 

A friend and I were at dinner with two gentlemen from Geneva who were doing fieldwork in Ghana as part of a nutrition-focused NGO. They asked about my research work in Accra and my background in geochemistry and health. Laughing, they said that their NGO could probably use that background in geochemistry even though the NGO dealt with nutrition. One mentioned that though he knew nothing about nutrition- having background in international development- he has set the fortification standards for five countries, a fact he admitted was scary. Both men looked at me morosely and uttered, “Never go humanitarian.” 

The men talked of their frustration with large international organizations that have problems sticking to their code of ethics and problems making sustainable projects. They said they have been kicked out of meetings because they stood up to the authorities. They said they have seen schools built where uneducated teachers were brought in to teach. They said there is too much money to be made by keeping people poor and hungry. They said it has destroyed their childhoods.

This news was Earth-shattering to me, especially as someone who envisioned working with such an organization in the future. At this moment, I finally realized what was so incredibly special and unique about Rotary. It was exactly what has confused me about Rotary in the past. I was always uneasy about the business and networking aspects of Rotary, that Rotarians were often well-to-do, with comfortable salaries and prominent careers. How much could these people know about suffering? It was almost as if Rotarians were conservative hippies- business people who still wanted world peace. Then it hit me. Rotarians use their careers for humanitarian purposes; the humanitarian work is not necessarily their careers. This set-up is ingenious. The world needs well-to-do people who also care about hunger, poverty, and education. For instance, take Rotary’s six main areas of focus: peace and conflict resolution, disease prevention and treatment, water and sanitation, maternal and child health, basic education and literacy, and economic and community development. They recognize it is in everyone’s best interest to address these issues. Rotarians can have dignity in their careers, whatever they may be, then also find dignity in how they use their careers for service. This is why Rotary projects are so sustainable. When I met William Boyd, the chair of the Rotary Foundation, he said that Rotary projects are about 95% sustainable, which is tremendously successful. This level of sustainability makes sense: for one, Rotarians have a background of skills and knowledge, and secondly, they have no reason to try to make a project that will only work for the short-term. I had never been so proud of Rotary than at the end of that evening. It all finally made sense.

Ambassadorial Stories Pt II: Perceptions of Ghana

My perception of Ghana has evolved tremendously- from the time when I met my first Ghanaian friend at Lawrence University to the time I was assigned to the University of Ghana to my first experiences with the country, and now. First semester, I remember being a little bit frustrated with things in Ghana. Sometimes it was the lack of information flow at the University: not knowing how to register or class schedules and assignments changing at the last minute with only a few students being alerted. Sometimes it was the preachers calling you a sinner, cutoffs of electricity and water, or the hot weather and biting insects. Sometimes I would feel like this place was just wildly different from home. One morning was particularly difficult. It was Christmas Day and I was terribly uncomfortable in the heat as my roommate and I sat in a taxi on our way to my host family’s house. I remember so clearly walking into their living room that day. Upon seeing a Christmas garland draped above their sofa and a small Christmas tree with lights sitting in the corner, I was almost brought to tears. It was so beautiful, making me realize this place was not so different after all. There I was in the love of my family, just as Christmas ought to be.

There were some Ghanaian customs to which it took a while to grow accustomed. For example, when eating in public you are always expected to share your food with the people around you, or at least say, “You’re invited.” I was at first confused when someone would take a big bite out of my ice cream or take my last spring roll.  Yet, my view of this norm changed with time. It went from surprise and confusion to the realization that sharing is valued here and it is expected that the person ordering food buys for all, or that the first person on a bus takes care of the fare for those with him. Kindness is expected. That is not a bad thing, but it took me a while to recognize such.

The most difficult question I received in Ghana - which came much too frequently - was, "So, how do you find the place? How do you see Ghana? How do you like it here?" I found this question so difficult because there were tremendous ups and downs to every day.  Yes, I liked the friendly people and welcoming attitudes, but living in Ghana can be tough. My personal living conditions were not horrible, and it was still tough. The thing that always gets me is just how many ways there are of living in Ghana, largely based on socio-economic status. My host family for example has a nice house, personal cars, 7 children who all speak English fluently, secure jobs, and good educations. A classmate has working class parents who own a small canteen and catering business, have things like a car and air conditioner, but have specifically budgeted for their son to attend the University. Then I have a friend whose entire family works in the market. As 7th out of 9 children, he managed to send himself to school, rent a single-room apartment in a "dusty" part of Accra and pays for electricity as the money comes. Never having left Accra, he says I now know the country better than he does. All these people are truly Ghanaian, just like I may be American but have a much different life than a neighbor in Wisconsin. It is not that income disparities do not exist in the US or other countries; it is that the results of income disparities are so obvious in Ghana that at times it seems wildly unjust and more than a little heart-breaking. 

*                                       *                                        *

          When I first began traveling internationally, I expected to be embarrassed of being an American.  In addition to finding anti-American sentiments, I expected to find ways of doing things that were just so much better than the way we do things at home. However, the opposite happened. Traveling instilled in me a great pride for the United States by helping me recognize the calmness and organization in our country and of course the kindness of the people. While traveling, I met people who wanted to attend school in the states and people who followed American football teams.  

At one point during the year, I was chatting online with a Ghanaian friend from Lawrence who was working in the US at the time. During the conversation he happened to mention that going to school in the United States made him so much prouder of Ghana. So here I was in Ghana, being proud of the United States, while he was there in the United States telling me it made him prouder of Ghana. I started to think that maybe our pride has no bearing on which country actually deserves more pride. To shed light on the issue, I asked my roommate from Botswana if living in Accra made her more proud of Botswana. She said absolutely. 

Perhaps experiencing something new makes you appreciate what you have. Perhaps your living style gives you comfort while it may not bring the same sense of comfort to others. When you feel proud of your country, take a minute and think about why you feel that way. It might be a revealing exercise.

Ambassadorial Stories Pt. I

By learning about customs in Ghana, I completed half of my role in spreading goodwill and understanding. With understanding come respect and acceptance. If I could come to understand that country, my discussions of Ghana back home would also spread understanding through fair and truthful stories. But understanding is two-way; it must be two-way in order to spread goodwill and peace. This meant that my interactions with people there also needed to increase their understanding of me.

 I have contributed to this in many ways. The most obvious ways were through interactions with friends and peers who asked questions or listened to my stories of home. The less obvious methods were through one-time interactions with acquaintances or strangers. For instance, countless taxi drivers have pleaded, “Take me to your country! There are jobs there. You do not have to be poor like here.”  In these instances I usually smiled and said that yes, I love the United States, but life can be very difficult there. Even many Americans have difficulty finding jobs. It is never as easy as it seems. 

An example of an encounter that stands out in my mind occurred one day when I was studying in my department. Another student sitting behind me said hi, introduced himself, then asked me why America thinks their form of democracy will work for everyone.  "Why do you think your democracy is the only democracy?" he wondered. To give context, this was just a few weeks after Gaddafi was killed, and the young man explained why he thought Gaddafi was a good leader. He said Gaddafi made Libya a prosperous nation- much more prosperous than Ghana. Perhaps his most intriguing point was that the United States did not start out having everyone in the country vote. The poor, uneducated, blacks, and women, were all kept from that "right" as it would later become. Likewise, he believed, the illiterate in Ghana also should not vote. Such people were bringing in leaders who were unfit to lead. Ghana was not ready for the United States' democracy. I had never heard an argument like this before and as such I took quite a bit of time before responding. Essentially, I said that I do not think America has one form of democracy with which every one agrees. The US has over 300 million people and you would be hard-pressed to find two citizens that share the exact same collection of political beliefs. In fact, some of the worst schisms between neighbors occur because of disagreements on government. What we do generally agree on, I emphasized, are basic things like human rights and individual freedoms. Though I have never been into government or politics, I tried to give him my (relatively uncontroversial) view on the US. This incident made me think. Standing up for your country is like standing up for a family member: you can recognize when it has done something wrong, but hope it changes and love it all the same. As an Ambassador, I pray my interactions with others have increased understanding about my home in a positive way.

Update on my Academics

            The opportunity to study at the University of Ghana has opened my eyes to a new system of education. As of now, I have completed all the classes required for the first year MPhil students in the Department of Geography and Resource Development. 

Though my background is in the hard sciences, there has also been a significant focus on international development and public health in my studies, mainly in terms of environmental problems. At the University of Ghana, I had the incredible opportunity to take classes on the social issues that have always fascinated me but have always been a side note to natural science. For instance, I now have a solid foundation in Medical Geography, Population Geography, and Rural Development. In applying to the Department of Geography and Resource Development, I thought it would help me learn more about Ghana and the social issues that complicate environmental issues. Turns out I was right. Now, I can shoot off statistics from life expectancies and maternal mortality rates around Africa to the prevalence of AIDS or respiratory diseases in Ghana to the spatial factors to cholera. 

My thesis proposal addresses the issue of air pollution and health in Accra. I plan to analyze differences in people’s environmental health risk perceptions based on place of residence. The characteristics that come with socio-economic status (income, education level, exposure to pollution, and health status) may cause one to have higher or lower perceptions of their own risk. Little is known about this issue in a developing country, especially one with such rapid urbanization as Ghana. The Head of Department has said that I am the first foreign lady to do a Master’s degree in the department. They are allowing me to write my thesis from the US, though that will require a brief trip back to Ghana to collect data. If all works as planned, I will finish the program by June or July. 

Looking at this topic has already helped me make connections with experts in the US who would love to look at the issue in a country with such a vastly different economic and cultural environment. I have also met with key informants in Ghana, such as a director at the EPA. The Head of Department said he was surprised that I stayed here for a full year; most students just come for a semester. He said, “You will be a big woman in Ghana someday.” No doubt, traveling, studying, and living abroad has greatly supplemented my academic background as well as cultural and social experiences.

Blogging

The time delay between now and my last post is not an example of GMT (Ghana Man Time: the time zone of Ghana). 



Quick update: I am in the United States. I am doing well. I am finishing my Master's Degree. 



I found blogging during my last few months in Ghana very difficult for several reasons:

1) It is not enough to post about my daily activities in a journal-like fashion. Every word needs to have a reason, a purpose. As a well-trained liberal arts student, I thrive on thinking critically (I think...) and wish to share new angles of perception with others. Forming themes and arguments takes time, and once formed, articulation takes even more time.

2) I am not short of theses or arguments. Yet, unfortunately these topics tend to be a little controversial. I do not like unnecessary controversy. I also do not want to sound like I'm complaining. I mean, come on, living in a hostel in Ghana can be hard.

3) It was difficult enough for me to start a blog, feeling uncomfortably egotistical and vulnerable; it would be even worse to think my daily goings-on deserve to be immortalized in cyberspace. 

So there we go: I have some cool thoughts; I haven't shared them with you; I will now.


One requirement of the Rotary Ambassadorial Scholarship is a final report to be written and submitted before leaving your host country. The report is sent to District Governors of the host and sponsor districts, as well as clubs and the Scholarship Coordinator at Rotary International. This requirement forced me to articulate many of the ideas that had been swirling madly in my head, while granting me some comfort in knowing that controversy and uncomfortableness is merely a way of showing that the scholarship helped me learn something. From here on, I will be posting sections of my report. Stay tuned...

Star Struck: Meeting the Rotary Foundation Chair

Another amazing opportunity in Ghana…

At an inter-city meeting held last week, Rotarians from around Accra (and a few from Germany too) had the privilege of listening to William Boyd speak about the value of the Rotary Foundation.  For those who are unfamiliar to Rotary, the Rotary Foundation works within Rotary International essentially to raise and distribute its funds. William Boyd is currently the chair of the Rotary Foundation. During his introduction, I also learned the impressive fact that one can only become chair of the Foundation if he or she has already been president of Rotary International.  Boyd was president of Rotary International from 2006-2007.

Boyd and his wife, who reside in New Zealand, were in Ghana for a few days to look at water projects around the country. In his talk, he described just how successful Rotary Foundation projects have been. He mentioned that such projects have a 90-some percent sustainability rate. That is compared to UN projects that have about a 60% sustainability rate. People invest in the Rotary Foundation because they understand Rotary International’s motto “Service Above Self” and recognize that the Foundation's "Doing Good in the World" makes it happen. Bill and Melinda Gates have now donated over $450 million to Rotary International, and their support has helped Rotary eliminate endemic polio in all but 5 of the world’s countries. Now, that is an accomplishment.

The Rotary Foundation is also responsible for the Ambassadorial Scholarship program. One of the ways that they support Rotary International’s mission of spreading goodwill and understanding is by sending youth abroad. 

Regina, a good friend of mine doing African Studies here at the University, is an Ambassadorial Scholar from South Carolina. During the meeting, several people were introduced and asked to stand. Some were donors, others were part of a newly formed club, and then there were the Ambassadorial Scholars. When Regina and I stood up, Boyd spread a huge smile like I had not seen all meeting. After the meeting, we rushed up to the head table where we shook hands with past and future District Governors and Rotary Foundation trustees. As we were moving along down the table, Boyd stood up and left before we got to him. I was disappointed for a second, but then I felt a hand on my shoulder.  I turned to find out he had come over to greet us! So honored, I told him that I know first-hand how much the Foundation’s investments pay off and how much of a difference they make.

The Ambassadorial Scholars and William Boyd,

a man who makes the scholarship possible.

(We called him the night before to find out what color tie he was going to wear).

We went on to talk for quite a while (interrupted of course by many pictures) about the future of the scholarship program. In two years, it will be called “Future Vision” and will be more vocationally-oriented. The Districts (who interview and actually distribute the scholarship) will also be in charge of determining how much the scholarship is worth for a particular year. 

It was a memorable lunch.

Strikes

Ghana is a peaceful country. It’s full of happy-go-lucky people who are more likely than not genuine in wishing for the best of those around them.

Ghana is also a poor country. And that explains things like illiteracy and theft.  There are still glitches in policies and government bureaucracy. Citizens do not always ignore these. 

Since March 16^th, all professors and lecturers at the University have been on strike. This is not an unfamiliar situation. Last month, the staff workers went on strike because the University owed them a month’s pay. We could not get into our lecture room because the department office was closed and the keys, inside. Apparently, the University Teachers Association of Ghana is demanding fair pay from the government and all members refuse to teach until those needs are met: ­­­http://www.ug.ghanacampusnet.com/campus_news/utag-withdraws-services

Monday, we had our regular classes, but on Tuesday, our professor (the strictest and most serious of the department) came in to tell us that he could not give the lecture. He had given his regular lecture the day before and his colleagues were very upset.  These strikes are a completely collective action. Evidently, it has to be all or none.

Two years ago, students striked because of student fees. It ended up lasting so long that final exams needed to be extended into winter break.

Though this particular action still seems “foreign” to me, thinking about it always brings me back to the question: if it works and it is peaceful, why not? It has also taught me to stay on my feet and not get too upset when things change. Three weeks ago I was informed that the first year Masters students were to present their thesis proposals the following week. I was not too happy to hear that I had only 7 days to synthesize my literature review, objectives, and proposed methodology. Thursday came along and sure enough, all of Legon was without power for that entire day. No projector means no powerpoint. No powerpoint meant no presentations. So, they were postponed to this week. Now, we have no one to grade or listen to our presentations, so they have been cancelled once again.

To me, strikes seem so… hmm… Ghanaian. It is their method of being heard. A passive method of being heard. But again, I guess it works.

It just seems ironic that a strike simultaneously detracts from the students’ services.

3 Hours in the Operating Room

Lately, I have been feeling a little discouraged about the lack of Rotary service projects I have been able to partake in this year. The issue is that a lot of the projects sponsored by Accra Rotary Clubs are based on funding or implementing things like toilets, sanitation technology, and wells. Instead of playing with kids for a few hours or going to a soup kitchen (like is so popular in the US) Rotarians will go assess a project site by looking at what the club has funded. So, I have found it tricky to get involved thus far.  Usually I go to Rotary Fundraiser events such as masquerades or gatherings at Rotarians’ houses.

This week, I got my chance -- not to do the work firsthand but to see some totally awesome super amazingly cool service. This week, volunteer surgeons, nurses, and dentists came from all over the world with an organization called Alliance for Smiles. Rotary Clubs in Accra have partnered with them to give free surgeries to anyone in Ghana who has a cleft lip or palette.

They had advertised in churches, schools, and communities in all regions of Ghana, telling people that they would be given free transportation and surgeries to repair their mouths if they desired. Patients of all ages showed up. It was heart wrenching and heart warming at the same time. Some children said that they had no friends- that people were afraid of them and could not look at them in the face. “People do not like me around,” one said.  One patient was 39, meaning she has lived through all sorts of stages with that problem. Some patients actually had teeth in their cheeks and holes in their faces that made eating nearly impossible.

I donned my scrubs and accompanied the surgeons in the operating room.

Me and Rotarian Moses. 

I saw the patients from stage one until finish, when their mouths looked amazingly normal (minus the blood and stitches).

note: the nose is to the bottom of the picture, with the mouth right above it

The surgeons were incredible and the atmosphere was light.  Bluegrass music was playing, prompting one surgeon to inform the Ghanaian technicians about the history of each singer and their involvement with World War II.  The anesthesiologist was from Brookfield, Wisconsin, right next to my hometown.

One surgeon also gave me some background on cleft lips while he was operating. Apparently 1 in 800 Africans are born with the disfiguration. It is the same statistic with white Americans, but African Americans only experience 1 in 2,000 because cleft lips are genetic and it is likely that most African Americans with cleft lips did not survive through slavery in the US. Doctors used to think that there was a part of the mouth missing when in actuality the muscles are merely attached in the wrong places. These simple surgeries cut the muscles and stretch them back in place.

One of Rotary’s 5 avenues of service is vocational service.  (The others are club service, community service, international service and new generations service.) This was the perfect example of how practicing high ethical standards in a vocation allows you to use your skills to do good.

The project will continue for a total of 2 weeks. This is their third time to Ghana.

How Salsa Brought Hollywood to Accra

In September, Lesego and I entered the world of salsa… and it really is a world of its own. It first started with a class at the Sports Directorate on campus. We met countless new friends, learned sassy flips and turns and spins, and began seeing more of Accra by dancing at new venues. Spending time with what we call our “salsa family” has been a defining part of our experience here. 

This past weekend was the final round of a salsa competition hosted by the toothpaste brand, Close-Up. The first round was in January and Francis and his group made it to the final.  Hosted at the International Conference Center in Downtown Accra and filmed for TV, the event was breath taking. It was complete with red carpet, paparazzi, and decked-out stage, lights, and music. In fact, on our way out of the show, I was pulled over and asked (4 times after 3 refusals) to be interviewed for TV.  Ralph and Mike, (Francis' cousin, right) thought that if they escorted me I would do it. I find this picture just too funny:

The stage was magnificent. There were also famous Ghanaian singers that came and performed their current pop songs. 

This is Francis' group. He is on the right with his dance partner, Memuna, a friend of ours:

 Unfortunately, Francis’ group did not win the competition, which was surprising to us as well as, I’m sure, much of the crowd.  We were confused why the winning group seemed to be extremely amateur.  Yesterday I learned that Francis had talked to one of the judges and it turns out that the winner’s uncle worked for Close-Up. Ha. Oh, Ghana. Francis’ group however won best choreography and best costume, which I’m pretty sure usually equates to best dance. Oh well.

I am so grateful to have such a wonderful activity to fill my time outside of the classroom. Over the past 5 years, I have forgotten what it is like to be around non-academics; when reading journal article after journal article, it is a breath of fresh air.

 Here are a few more pictures from the event: 

Things I’ve learned from salsa:

1) Following is a skill. You can’t always lead. Besides, following can be fun :) 

2) The more practice you get, the less dizzy you’ll be.

3) It’s okay for a girl to ask a guy to dance. If you wait around and get bored, it’s your own fault.

4) Ginger Rogers did everything Fred Astaire did, but backwards and in high heels.

5) Flair makes everything look nicer. 

6) Smile. Always. There’s no reason not to.

Travels Around Ghana

Classes start again this week, so I figure this is a good time to share some of the places I have been able to visit over the holiday break.

VOLTA REGION: Volta is named for the huge river and lake that span across Ghana.  The wetland and drainage area cover parts of Togo and Burkina Faso as well.  With a group of students, I took a bus to the far east of the country to climb Ghana’s highest peak: Mount Afadjato.  Granted this mountain is only 885 meters high, it was still tricky descending in the pouring rain. Apparently, there’s a higher peak a few kilometers away, but it is in Togo.  I don’t know how some girls climbed in flip-flops and some boys climbed in converses or barefoot. I don’t think climbing is a popular activity in Ghana. 

The group also stopped at the highest waterfall in West Africa.

Lesego and I returned to Volta with two others on a trip to Akosombo. We went to take a cruise on Volta Lake and see the dam that provides the energy for all of Ghana (as well as Togo and Benin).  It was so nice to be among the mountains for a while and enjoy an air-conditioned hotel room before school starts again.

MOLE NAT’L PARK: I was graced by the presence of my parents over New Years and one of the first things we did was fly to the Northern Region to visit Mole National Park, Ghana’s largest wildlife sanctuary. The flat and dry savanna land was once used as a game reserve, but is now a national park complete with safari. Our hotel rested on top of a hill overlooking a watering hole that housed baboons, antelopes, crocodiles, warthogs, and even elephants.

We got to see the animals up close. Very close. Monkeys would try to take food off our tables, and a baboon stole Lesego’s swimsuit that was hanging out to dry.  On our guided walking safari, we even met the elephant named “People’s Friend No. 2.”  Apparently People’s Friend No. 1 used to drink out of the hotel’s swimming pool before disappearing somewhere in the park.

Mole felt different than any other part of Ghana I had seen, not only in terms of the weather and landscape but the people, language and lifestyle. I liked it.

CAPE COAST: As probably my favorite city in Ghana, Cape Coast lies in the Central Region of Ghana, only about a 2 hour drive from Accra.  I had gone there once to enjoy the beach on Francis’s birthday and we returned with my parents to do the sightseeing and enjoy the rich history of the area. 

Cape Coast was the first capital of the British Gold Coast Empire. On the coast is a large fortress, Cape Coast Castle, which was first used by the Portuguese in the 15^th century to hold and transport slaves.  It contains the famous “Door of No Return” through which slaves would pass and board ships to the Americas.

Close to Cape Coast is Kakum National Park, an exciting rainforest preserve with a canopy walk.

KUMASI: Lesego and I were able to join a group of exchange students from UW-Milwaukee on a trip to the ancient capital of the Ashanti Empire.  Kumasi is famous for the second largest market in West Africa (after one in Nigeria) and for housing the current king of the Ashantis. Bustling Kumasi felt much like Accra with a slightly cooler temperature. We were able to go to a few small towns that showed us how they make local glass beads and textiles. 

 The glass powder and clay molds used for making beads. 

 Symbols are seen everywhere and on everything. We had the chance to choose and stamp our own.

Sometimes I forget there’s more to Ghana than Accra. It sure is a beautiful country.

"And there won't be snow in Africa this Christmastime..."

I think it was the first week in December when I heard my first Christmas song of the year playing on the radio in Accra.  Still feeling like it was August, I was completely thrown off guard.  And I wondered, why does this feel so out of place? Should not one be able to experience the Christmas spirit regardless of location, climate, or customs? Is it not about the way we treat people and our observance of religious traditions? But then I realized, it’s more than that. I do need the Christmas atmosphere in which I was raised to feel the same type of excitement I have always had at this time of year.  The songs evoke memories.  It’s the reminder of what the season will bring.  It’s the heightened expectation of experiencing all that the songs are talking about.  It’s knowing that I will watch The Santa Clause and cut down my own tree and string lights around the house. It is too hard to listen to Jingle Bells when I know I probably will not hear any.  I cannot shriek at the joy of a Winter Wonderland when I know I won’t get one.  And boy, does hot cocoa in front of a fire sound like the last thing I want.  This holiday season, I listened to Christmas music and felt the love of family and friends, but I missed waking up in my house to the smell of fresh sugar cookies, sitting in front of the warm air coming from our register, and watching the tiny snow flakes falling so delicately outside the kitchen window.  THAT is why Christmas was different here. It’s a different Christmas spirit.

Black Santas out the window:  I asked Lesego if she grew up with a black or a white Santa.  She said they didn't have Santa in the village, but she always saw a white Santa. Only later in life did she see black Santas. 

Nevertheless, I truly enjoyed the 25^th (and 6^th and 7^th) with my host family and roommate.  It was nice to be reminded that Ghana is more than students living in hostels; there are indeed families that celebrate together.  Our dinner was wonderful.  Not knowing what to expect, I pictured fufu and kenkey on our Christmas dinner table, but instead there was a magnificent turkey.  (Okay, there was still rice and stew, but this is Ghana and it would be just too absurd to not have rice…) Six out of Fredi and Emma’s seven children were there, one of who returned from the UK and was accompanied by his wife and little girl.  We exchanged presents- I got a beautiful African dress from Fredi and Emma and gave them a book about the history of Milwaukee- ate, and watched movies.  Thankfully, they have a room with air conditioning so I got my dose of cold for at least a bit. :)

The holiday season always reminds you of how lucky you are… not for what you have or where you are, but for who you have.  In my telephone call back home, I talked to my parents, my brother, my aunts, uncle, cousins, and godmother, all of whom regretted my absence but were excited for my Christmas experience abroad and guaranteed me how much I was loved.  I ensured them that I was still with family here.